Macugnaga to Saas Fee: The final leg over and The 10 Rules of Modern Hiking

What the guidebook says:

Distance: 20km*

Ascent: 1540m

Descent: 1180m

Time: 11 hours*

* Exaggeration factor 1.5x. This is a 30km leg according to our GPS: beware.

It was a case of unconscious bias, perhaps driven by the number of letter "g"s in the place names, but I had expected both Alagna and Macugnaga to be unattractive, modern and a slightly industrial. In fact they were both beautiful mountain villages with fabulous views, overflowing with rustic alpine charm and character.

And an impressive church - simple on the outside, but quite complex within.

So it was from Macugnaga that we embarked on our final leg over the Monte Moro pass and back into Switzerland. Readers of our previous post on Standard Exaggeration Factors in hiking will understand when we say we were by now a trifle wary in accepting distance advice from hikers and guide books. Suffice to say that even the guide book considers this stage of the journey to be a 2 day undertaking if no transportation options are taken. The sign below gives a "hiker's time" to the Monte Moro pass from where it is still another 20km or so to Saas Fee (half of which can be done on the bus).

For the first 400m of ascent out of town there appears to be nothing but cliff. We were curious as to how the path could climb this mountain to the first lift station so decided to walk it. The path was good but steep and wove it's way up the sheer mountain face. My bag felt especially heavy and the boys marched on ahead laughing happily as my breathing approximated the puffing of Stephenson's rocket. Half way up we met some salami-in-the-making and took a welcome pause.

After an hour we reached the lift station and hopped on board for the best value EUR9 ride up to a spot about 100m below the Monte Moro pass. We felt good about having climbed as far as we did and even better that we had now finished the climbing phases of the Tour Monte Rosa.

And we were soon on our way to the peak, after a short cappuccino break at the pleasant Rifugio near the border. This would be a great place to stay on any future tour.

The last stretch our of Italy was unexpectedly cold, windy and steep. This really was the last climb for us.

But we scrambled up there and took a few selfies at the summit, pleased to be able to see the end of our journey. The wind almost blew us off the mountain a few times at the top and it was quite cold - around 0C before wind chill.

In the background in this picture you can see Mattmark lake and dam, the end-point of our hike. Check out Felix's hair in the wind.

Still unaccustomed to mountain perspective we thought that the end of the lake behind us here looked pretty close. In fact it was 750m down and 10km away (5.5km according to the guidebook, SEF 1.9x). The scale of the mountains is awesome.

After picking our way across rocks and ice for the first 90 minutes of descent

And encountering some horny beasts along the way

A few waterfalls

We topped up our water bottles, now finally confident that the water in the mountain streams is safe to drink, and marched on towards the lake and the longest flat section on the entire route.

By now we had the end in sight and skipped along the lakeside like gambolling lambs. We were on the home stretch.

Even to the end after 9 days in the mountains we continued to be struck by the scale and majesty of the mountains, the glaciers and the ever-changing skies.

With the experience of 9 days in the mountains we now feel able to share the key learnings in the form of our 10 rules.

The 10 Rules of Modern Hiking.

1. Only a fool or a mule would consider walking all the way. The lifts are there for a reason.

2. Carry as little as possible, let your footman or valet carry most of the heavy stuff like picnic tables and silverware as these do become a burden.

2. Drink mountain stream water whenever possible. It is excellent with cognac as long as the proportions are correct: 1 to 1.

3. While it may be tempting to bring a your favourite hickory cane with carved silver ferrule, one has to admit that a pair of modern hiking poles is more functional in helping keep balance and reducing lateral muscle usage. The carrying of two hickory canes is raffish. Save the cane for the mountain villages.

4. Never economise on socks. For some reason the Americans seem to make good Merino wool hiking socks. While expensive they are harder wearing than the cashmere socks you will prefer for the evenings and won't be seen, so no need to worry. At least 2 pairs each to allow for laundering and daily changes.

5. Remember that hiking guides are written by boasting braggards. When they say, "The path follows a steady climb of 10km on a well marked route...", what they are mean is, "It was easy for me and only seemed like 10km...". They are vainglorious liars and a translation of their coquetry would be, "This indistinct 20km path is steep and treacherous and should only be attempted by adult goats."

6. Ensure that you are equipped with a collection of local maps which show the hiking paths and their numbers. If you need a magnifying glass to read the map, it is the wrong map.

7. There are many mountain huts along the way, especially in Italy, and they provide quite adequate shelter and sustainence. It is not considered necessary to dress for dinner in these establishments although cigars must generally be taken on the verandah.

8. When glum Singing the family songs will raise the spirits.

9. Wounds and light injuries and abrasions are best treated swiftly before they worsen. Modern anti-blister medication and patches are lighter than traditional poultices.

10. Limit formal wear to a light wool dinner suit and simple patent leather shoes. The mountain restaurants are quite informal so white-tie is not really necessary unless celebrating a birthday or other celebration.

With these 10 rules, you will be safe and enjoy an excellent Tour Monte Rosa, whoever you are.

Thank you for reading!